DOODLES AND
OVEREXCITEMENT

What a Doodle is, and is not

Doodles are crosses between a Poodle and another breed, most often a Labrador or Golden Retriever. A well-known story starts in Australia in 1989, when Wally Conron, who ran breeding for a guide dog program, crossed a Labrador and a Standard Poodle. Conron is said to have wanted a guide dog that would shed less, for a client with allergies. The cross became popular and breeders made many more.

Doodles are not a recognized breed. Puppies in one litter can differ in coat, size, and temperament. That makes it hard to say what any one Doodle will be like. Some are calm and easygoing, and some are big, bouncy, and intense. When people say "Doodles are all hyper," that is a stereotype. Many are, and many are not. This page is for the ones who are.

The parent breeds were developed as working dogs. Poodles were water retrievers, and Labs and Goldens retrieve in the field. These are active, people-loving dogs. See our Doodle guide for more on the background.

Why overexcitement happens

Overexcitement is not a character flaw. It is a state, where arousal runs so high that the dog cannot think. A dog in that state cannot follow cues even if they know them. Reasons include:

• A friendly, social temperament that can't wait to say hello.
• Too little rest. Young dogs need far more sleep than people expect, often most of the day. Overtired dogs get wilder, not calmer.
• Too little mental work, or a lot of fast, frantic exercise that raises arousal without teaching calm.
• Rewarded excitement. If wild greetings get laughter, attention, or play, the dog repeats them.
• Age. Adolescent Doodles can be especially silly and hard to settle.

Our blog on why dogs get overly excited and the overexcited dogs page explain the nervous system side. When a dog is flooded, asking louder does not help. Lowering the level does.

It helps to ask what your own dog's trigger list looks like. For many, it is the front door, other dogs, a favorite person coming home, and the moment before a walk. Write yours down. Then you can practice the hardest moments in smaller pieces, with your dog already rested and fed, and in a space you can control.

Teach calm on purpose

Settle on a mat

Choose a mat or bed. Reward your dog for stepping on it, then lying down, then staying down while you stand nearby. Give treats in a slow trickle. Build up the time, then practice with mild distractions. Eventually, a mat can go with you to a cafe, a friend's house, or the vet.

Practice boring

Calm needs reps. Take your dog somewhere easy and stand around. Reward for any relaxed behavior, like a loose body, a long exhale, or a lie down. Do not wait for the "perfect" calm. Reward small steps.

Rest, daily

Plan crate or gated rest periods with a chew several times a day. A dog who rests well is easier to teach. It is not punishment; it is a break for the brain.

End the wild play early

If play is ramping up, pause before it becomes frantic. Say the cue, wait for a breath, and reward calm. Then release to play again. Your dog learns that calm gets play back.

Greetings, guests, and walks

The doorbell is a classic trigger. Break it into parts. Practice the bell with no guest, and reward your dog for going to the mat. Then add a helper at the door. Keep your dog on a leash at first. Ask guests to ignore the dog until all four paws are down. Many guests do not mean to reward jumping, but they do, so give them a clear job.

On walks, the same idea applies. Start inside, then in the yard, then in quiet streets, rewarding a loose leash. Use sniff breaks. Overexcited dogs often do better when walks are slower and include time to smell. Our sniff walks page shows how.

With other dogs, avoid letting your Doodle charge at every dog they see. Greet only when calm, and keep greetings brief. A dog who is wound up can overwhelm a calmer dog, and that can lead to a scrap. Parallel walking, as in pack walks, teaches dogs to be near others without losing their cool.

A five minute exercise

Clip on a leash inside the house. Stand near the door with treats. Open the door an inch. If your dog stays loose, reward and close it. If your dog surges, close it calmly and wait. Open a bit more each round. Within a few sessions, many dogs begin to offer a sit or a pause on their own, which tells you the lesson is landing. Keep it light and short, and quit while it is going well.

Scent work, coat care, and getting help

Scent games lower arousal for many dogs, because sniffing is a slow, focused task. A treat search in the living room can take the edge off a Doodle with the zoomies. Try nose work at home, or read about why sniffing calms dogs. Our group classes and scent work path give structured practice.

Do not forget the body. Many Doodles have thick, curly coats that mat. Matting hurts, and a dog in discomfort acts out. Keep up with grooming, check ears, and ask your vet about any scratching or sudden behavior changes. Ear problems and skin issues can make a dog frantic.

We never use punishment to calm an overexcited dog. Yelling, leash pops, and physical corrections add stress, and stress raises arousal. See force-free training for how we help dogs learn calm instead. If you feel stuck, a private lesson can build a plan around your own home, your doorbell, and your routine.